Yep. You found me.  I started this thing as part of a portfolio site - however, as you can see, no portfolio!  Wrangling together like 15 years of photography, art, and design is a bitch, if you don't want to wait, hit me up.  I usually don't write unless I have a lot to say - If you're looking for regular activity, you'll have better luck over at my Tumblr!

July 26, 2008

Closing Arguments

40,000 feet over the Newfies again. The flight has been a lil bumpier than the way over but i guess we've got a headwind or something. Decided to make a random list of details, observations and what not.

Peak Oil - 

I could count the amount of SUV's and trucks i saw on one hand the entire time i was there. If people need to move shit, they either rented a truck or have a trailer to hitch up. I didn't see any evidence of electric hybrids or hydrogen stations, but there were a ton of diesels (not to mention our own rental) - diesels get better mileage and now that the price of crude is as high as it is, the price difference is negligible. I guess they've also been formulating it without sulfur so the emissions are less harmful. Oh and if you think that gas is expensive back home, how does €1.50 a liter of 87 sound - nearly €8 a gallon and almost €12 for 93? (keep in mind, thats $1.56 = €1. Hurts don't it?)

Generally speaking though, the real difference is simply the size of the cars - i doubt that the average American ego could afford to suffer the indignation of driving these little lunchbox sized bastards - but let me tell you, they sell for cheaper and as a result, people are able to afford new vehicles more often and keep them better maintained. Let us not forget the ubiquitous European trend of the scooter and motorcycle - they really are everywhere. Personally, i like the styling of European brands better - sure everyone knows about BMW, Mercedes, VW and Audi but other brands worth mentioning are Peugeot, Renault, Citroen, Seat, Opel and Fiat. Another thing was that the US markets' 'luxury' type brands like Mercedes and BMW have an entire product line of affordable, efficient cars over there, we don't see that in the states because they fear that it would tarnish the brands ability to define their owners as holier-than-thou smug pieces of shit, knowhatimsayin? The funny thing is that there were actually quite a few Fords. The only Ford i recognized was the occasional Focus, but they've designed quite a few sub-subcompact cars over there, logic would dictate that the oil crisis might have swayed Ford to offer these models back in the states, but so far, nada... doesn't make a whole lot of sense - but then again, not much makes any sense in America.


Environmental

This was the biggest shocker for me. France sucks for the environment, although you'd never ever know it from looking out the window (or at my photosets). I was in Tourbes, in bed at the B&B, when i woke up in a daze around 5:00AM, i still wasn't caught up on the time difference, and back home it was like midnight, so I'm usually awake doing whatever, the first several nights the sleep i was getting was feeling more like a long nap after work that I'd overslept through and woke up in the middle of the night. Anyway, there was no chance of me going back to sleep so instead i decided to open the shutters and step out onto the balcony to chill out and read a bit. At first i took in the view, tried to saturate the color of the sunlight coming off the buildings - fairly perfect if you ask me, but something was missing and i couldn't put my finger on it. Then it hit me...

I'm a night owl for sure, i like to stay up late, but not too late. 'Too late' for me has always been that point that the sky begins to get some color back, and almost immediately after that - the world becomes inundated with a cacophonous chorus of BIRDSONGS. At my balcony at 5:30AM in Tourbes, there wasn't a single solitary peep. I began to pay attention everywhere we went and noticed that quite honestly, we're in this beautiful countryside and aside from the farm animals there's no fucking animals anywhere.

No birds, no squirrels, no deer... no lions, tigers or bears...

Upon closer inspection i also noticed that aside from ants, flies and a smattering of bees, there were no insects either, no crickets, no grasshoppers, nothing. Seriously now, it seems like they keep a few pigeons around churches for the tourists, but that's about it. After interrogating my family about what the hell this was all about (and a confirmation that this wasn't a natural vacuum in the south of France) the answer i got was: Pesticides. It would seem all that beautiful countryside and farming comes with a price - in layman's terms, they knocked out the bottom of the ecosystem with killing all the insects, which forced birds to go elsewhere for food, which in turn ran right up the chain. Its simply the result of generations of pesticide applications for maintaining crops at any cost. All of a sudden, that farmers market in Privas seemed a little bittersweet to me. Yeah. I'm an upstate NY country boy, where I'm used to seeing deer and squirrel corpses littered around as often as you see a road sign - no animals was fucking creepy.

Another BIG thing. France has got the nukes goin on. In the drive, within sight line of the road, we passed THREE different nuclear power plants, the cooling towers hovering on the horizon like monolithic paper coffee cups steaming on a cold morning. Make no mistake about it - they're a scary sight, and it was a completely bizarre contrast to see hundreds of kilometers of countryside that would rival the hanging gardens of Babylon, and then all of a sudden; the twisted brainchild of Einstein and Oppenheimer and shadows of Chernobyl.

As we got closer to the Tricastin plant near Privas, my grandmother tells us, a bit too casually, that they just had an accident there several days ago when they were forced to vent irradiated water from the cooling pool. I mean. Really? Was i getting a dose? Did they evacuate everyone? No, a routine accident. The thought of one of those babies going critical and poisoning that beautiful place just seem all sorts of wrong. Sure, they're not burning coal, but i just can't hang with that.


Health (No Fat Chicks) -

A day before i left i had an unfortunate chat with a complete stranger here at home about my impending trip:

Stranger: "So you look like you're heading out for some sort of trip"
Me: "Uh, Yeah... I'm leaving tomorrow for 10 days in France."
Stranger: "Oh really? Well just watch out over there cause none of them women shave or wear deodorant over there!"
Me: "I'm going to kick you in the teeth you fat dumb fuck."

OK, maybe not the last line as I really couldn't afford to sit in a police station the day before i left, but it just reminded me as to why i was so happy to be getting the hell out of the country for a little while. Anyway, i have to comment on this retarded accusation.

First off, it is the 21st century, ideals of beauty set by popular culture have reached far and wide and chicks in Europe do indeed shave their pits. Now, every now and then I'd spot some lovely middle aged woman that didn't shave - but you know what, I'll take a general population of chicks who don't shave over a bunch of obese sweat pant clad behemoths, that's really what it comes down to. On the average, most every woman i saw over there, whether she was in her 20's or 50's, on the whole, were prettier, better dressed and all had very nice bodies (meaning that they were neither emaciated or hauling 2 tons of ass) And nice like, without effort, it didn't seem as if every woman in Europe spent an hour at the gym everyday, it was just a natural beauty complemented with the healthy glow that came with eating right, not sitting on the couch for 6 hours a day and enjoying a quality of life that 4 weeks of paid vacation every year provides.

What good is a shaved set legs if they look like shrink wrapped bags of cottage cheese and striped with varicose veins? What am i going to do with a Brazilian wax job if its buried under some disgusting FUPA? I'm not advocating my elementary school bus driver when i say I'll take hair over fat, but look - its just the way it is, European chicks are smokin hot and a lot of American chicks should take a cue; try sexy, classy and confident without having that air of entitled vain egomania.

I paid very close attention to this phenomenon (ahem...) and my conclusion was that it all started with the kids. Did i see some overweight / chunkier people over there? You betcha, you can't predispose an entire culture to things like cheese, bread and wine and not expect to put on a few pounds. However, you know what i didn't see a single one of? Fat kids. No fat children, not a one. People feel very strongly regarding policy on things like school lunches and physical activity, couple that with a socialized health care system where everyone is getting attention and advisement, and you have a culture that even though they still suffer from human ailments like cancer and AIDS, there is less diabetes and far less obesity, allergy and social anxiety disorders. You set the precedent at a young age for health, and it tends to carry through to adulthood. I contribute this to Europe following a wellness model of health care as opposed to our sickness model. The difference is that in a wellness model, the objective is to promote staying healthy and making the choices that will keep you from getting sick in the first place, on the flip side over here, a sickness based model is one in which no one usually speaks to a doctor until they're contracted some illness or disease, its in the interest of the US economy to treat symptoms instead of prevent the ailments that cause them.

Well kids, thats it for Eurotrip 2008.  Hope you enjoyed, cause from here on out, you can expect posts of the usual biting criticism, cynical observations and sociopolitical snoozers.

July 25, 2008

The End Times (no, not those End Times)

Theres this awful feeling in the pit of my stomach. I can only explain it like this - its like when you're out in a big public space, like a mall or something, and its gotten right up to or over the closing time, and you're still inside for some reason? Theres no fear of getting left behind or getting locked in, but you just feel as if you need to get out, its done, its over, no one else here, time to go? Its as if it won't really close until AFTER you leave, everything is waiting on you - and once you leave, maybe the place will cease to exist at all (quantum mechanics?)... there is some big cosmic eye nervously flicking back and forth between its big cosmic wristwatch and little ol you, still sitting around while the world is waiting to move on. Its an uncomfortable feeling. Yuck.

So here I am, with the vacation behind me, all stops made, all family visited, with less than 24 or so hours before i board another Swissair flight bound for JFK, another afternoon to repack my shit, say goodbyes and do one more lunch with the grandparents. Even though i don't want to leave, i sort of wish i could just go to sleep tonight and just wake up at home in bed back in Kingston.

What a great idea for a travel agency: we send men in black fatigues and balaclavas the night before you leave, chloroform your ass while you sleep, give you heavy sedatives before they cart you onto your flight and bring you home, where you're then tucked in at home with your suitcases at the foot of your bed, and voila - Genius... if only.

I guess its sort of like what it was before I left - I told a few people i was terribly anxious about the flight but once i was in the air I'd be fine. But going home will be tough - Ulster county, NY after the south of France? Ouch. Not to mention that its nearly August and the summer itself will be more than halfway over - this was my big vacation this summer and now, theres not a whole lot left to look forward to... I wish that could change.

Regardless, i do miss my crew, playing Hold 'em @ Suicide Kingston, watching the Yankee games, my cat Marco and a few special people, things will be just fine. Not to mention, I get to develop 15 minutes of Super8 film and about a hundred or so Holga 120 exposures. At least I'll have some shit to talk about now - something i had a complete lack of ten days ago!

Oh, and whatever you do - don't tell Robbie Cano and the Yankees that I'm coming home tomorrow - my boy Robbie has been absolutely raking - 14 of 27 with 7 RBI and 5 runs scored since the break and they've won six straight going into this weekends big series against the 'Sux. If i get home tomorrow and they lose, I'm just gonna stay the fuck out of the country until after October...

July 24, 2008

Privas



Privas Photoset

Over the course of the 10 days I've met a lot of family - some I've seen more recently than others, for example, my cousin Fabiola and her new hubby Jean Thierry visited the states just 2 years ago. Before that, my cousin Robin came and visited with his friend Guillaume. My grandparents, Amanda, Annie Claude, Felix, Christian and Bea have all visited in the last 15 years. However, my aunt Annick and her family have never visited the states and as a result i've only met my cousins Raphael, Lucille and Liza in photographs. I hardly had any memory of Annick and my uncle Bruno so i was very much anticipating meeting the Schaefer family and I had no doubt that it would be a fun experience.

The drive up into the mountains surrounding Privas was enjoyable and even though the town of Privas wasn't as impressive as say, Pezenas or Tourbes, the landscape kinda took the cake. The house they live in, nor the surrounding houses on the hill simply cannot be found back in the 'states - the stonewalled houses date back to around 1600. Sixteen. Hundred. That predates our our own Independence from the Brits by 176 years. Huh, Manhattan? You mean New Amsterdam? You get that? This isn't a tourist attraction - its their home - and its breathtaking; all the way from the wild flower gardens to the uber-traditional wine cave of my Uncle Bruno (we'll get to that more in a sec). Now I'm not trying to draw a comparison or draw favorites at all, but out of all my Aunts, I instantly thought that my own mother shared the most with Annick - the youngest of the four Badrot sisters (and thats pronounced BADGE-ROW, not BAD-ROT. Idiot.) The taste in decor for the house, their fashion choices... all very similar - and as a result, i believe i felt most at home in Privas.

The three cousins I had met earlier in the trip because they were at the weddings, but they were more open and comfortable at home; Raphael, 17, is an avid PC gamer and MotoX'r who wants to go to school for programming next year (hes been dabbling in PHP but i talked to him a bunch about getting to know Ruby on Rails, AJAX and keeping sharp on basic HTML/CSS skills.) The two sisters are younger, Liza, 12, is as sweet as they come and she was very engaging and we tried to talk as best we could, but mostly just laughed and nodded and stumbled through conversations. Lucille can't be more than 6 or 7; when shes not busy being the cutest little girl i've ever seen, she spends her time outwitting you, bossing everyone around and laughing like some terrifying psychotic child o' the corn.

We started the day by heading back into town to the bi-weekly farmers market. It was really great to see and provided plenty of good photo ops. One of the few good things Kingston has going for it is its uptown farmers market and it was interesting to see the original article that we were trying to emulate back home. Bruno picked up some grassfed local porkchops that, when we barbequed them for lunch later, gave my favorite butcher Fleishers, a run for their money.

Bruno is the real deal when it comes to wine collectors, and any wine collector worth his ...grapes, in France, has a wine cave. This thing was a time capsule, the least changed part of the house (originally for cold food storage as well as wine) and it not only contained close to 200 bottles, but all the trimmings too: dried sausage, cheese, pate, mustard - if its French and you can eat it, its down there. He even had an oldschool hand crank meat slicer nailed to the top of a wine barrel that he used to cut the aforementioned sausage. It lacked any windows or electricity so it was always candlelight, which of course, added to the ambiance. In the day and a half we were in Privas, we must have consumed close to 10 bottles - each one probably better than any wine I had ever had previously (and thats saying a lot for me). No words or photos would really come close to doing it justice, but I'll just say that out of the entire vacation - this was the gastronomic high water mark.

When we left, I felt truely heartbroken as i knew it was the final stop before heading back the Chambery for the last day. They gave us a few bottles to take home, Bruno gave me a 2004 named Cuvee St. Christophe, which i'm not sure if I'll ever have a good enough occasion to open up for - and they stood in the driveway, waving goodbye as we disappeared around the winding road that would descend us back to the road to Chambery, and eventually, home.

July 22, 2008

Jacques Kerouac

I should make this clear - the vacation I'm on, in essence, is a road trip across the south of France, east to west and then back - over the course of 10 days. Its an amazing opportunity, but as i mentioned in an earlier post, its incredibly frustrating to do so much over such a short amount of time. Today, we began to cut back west toward Switzerland and we would start the trip by skirting along the Mediterranean for an hour. Before continuing on, we decided to stop and have lunch next to the beach at Agde. Beach here is sandy, as opposed to the beaches further east toward Nice, which is more rocky. Even though the beach stretches for 25km (here i go with the metric) its damn narrow - i don't exactly understand how the science for this works, but there's hardly any tidal effects at all in the Mediterranean - the beach doesn't need to have depth. Same water. same moon. no tide. Comprends pas...



It was pretty neat that near the western edge where we were, i could see Spain and the Pyrenees across the water. Also worth mentioning was the lunch - i had a beef carpaccio au parmesan that was delectable, possibly the best meal I've had so far on the trip and that wasn't just the view talking. Before we left i ran down into the surf and got my feet wet for a short walk; mission accomplished.



We got going shortly afterwards to begin the trek north back toward Geneva, but first we were stopping in Privas for a day and a half with my Uncle Bruno and Aunt Annick. On the road again...


July 21, 2008

La France Profond (Deep France)


St.Martial Photoset

Today was the big wedding day - the aforementioned couple of my cousin Amanda and her fiance Edgar. The ceremony was to take place in a small town called St. Martial about 1.5hrs northwest of where we were in Tourbes. I had been told it was a small village up in the mountains but nothing could really prepare me for this. My father and I had the Passat to ourselves and chatted politics the whole way while we drove in caravan, following another one of my cousins, Capucine, up into 'Deep France'. The drive was all twisty's and as Capucine bobbed and weaved around slower traffic on these narrow little roads, i accepted that my French genes were responsible for more than just my love of food, wine and artiness - we all drive like maniacs too. Get me on a straightaway and I'm just bored - i could give a shit about my 1/4 mile time; but get me on the back roads with a chance to heel/toe and cut across lanes - it doesn't get anymore fun than that.

I'd have to say that this village is probably the most remote place on Earth I've ever been and when we got there, i was speechless. The ceremony took place in the old two room schoolhouse and there were maybe 20 or so people in attendance. Unlike Carcassonne, St.Martial was so remote that there simply were no tourists.  Had it not been for the pristine gardens and steppe farmed vineyards i would have thought that the town was derelict.

After the simple ceremony (more or less just paper signing and vows), everyone descended to the bottom of the valley near a stream and had a reception full of - you guessed it - bread, wine and cheese. I wound up being the de facto wedding photographer and had a lot of fun capturing the moments for this side of my family i had not been close with for so many years, it was a privilege.

July 20, 2008

Carcassonne



The nitty gritty on Carcassonne is that its the largest, most impressive remaining castle in all of France and maybe Europe. Don't get me wrong, in the trip so far it seems like i see a castle on every hilltop and I'm not exaggerating - but this joint must be what they ripped off of for the whole Disneyland thing, its massive and doesn't disappoint. Since its initial inception by the Romans, its never been breached by an invading army. A matter of fact, no English army during the 100 years war or the campaign of Edward the Black Prince of Wales even mounted a threat. It was only through a lengthy siege during the fourth crusade against the Cathars that the inhabitants were forced to surrender, after that, fortifications were increased and it never happened again.  Anyway, I'm really into this stuff and it was cool to see the real deal. Unfortunately its a complete tourist trap and its infested with fanny pack-clad middle aged couples and obnoxious high school students. I was patient with the camera and managed to find a few angles that were devoid of people, definitely got some halfway decent shots.

The good: I managed to snag a bottle of Absinthe from a wine shop inside the walls, I've always wanted to try this stuff after reading an article in Wired a few years ago about Absinthe buff Ted Breaux

The bad: said bottle of Absinthe was the only brand they carried and i don't exactly have high hopes for the quality, but it did come with its own little sugar spoon. 

Everyone has this idea that Absinthe makes you trip because its created in part with wormwood extract, which contains the chemical Thujone, rumored to have psychedelic effects - but recent analysis of vintage bottles of Absinthe show very low levels of Thujone and much higher alcohol content than previously thought. The stuffs supposed to taste terrible but I'm sure it'll get you fucked up in a 'different' sort of way... now if i only had some Laudanum.